"Elder is the Lady's tree - Burn it not or cursed you'll
be"
A few months ago, whilst hedgelaying with a SusCred group, I was told not to burn Elder
because 'it is the witches'
tree'. It also has the reputation of being the tree on
which Judas Iscariot hanged himself. Clearly this species
carries a
powerful and varied public relations message.
Personally I wouldn't go out of my way to burn Elder as it is
not a good fuel and I wouldn't want to upset the
Lady in any shape or form.
However I must admit that until recently I pretty much thought of
Elder as a 'weed' species that was readily spread around by birds
(and badgers). That didn't stop me picking a few of the
highly scented flowers to make
elderflower champagne at this time of year. You will find
many and varied recipes for this on t'internet. Generally I
try to clean the flowers up a bit - remove insects and obvious
crud. Also I use many more flowers than the recipes suggest
and steep them for days. If you do make this yourself then
make sure that you use containers that can withstand a lot of
pressure - maybe plastic fizzy drink bottles or sparkling wine
bottles. Using normal wine bottles is extremely dangerous and
when living in a student
house we had some very spectacular explosions that could have
caused severe injury. A 20 litre keg of elderflower champagne
goes down well at one of our big summer parties. You can
adjust the alcoholic content by varying the amount of sugar.
A more fashionable use of elderflowers is the
cordial. Cordials are essentially flavoured syrups with
sugar acting as a preservative. Someone recently told me of a
travelling family that follows the elderflower harvest through
Herefordshire and Worcestershire as the cordial is now being made
on a scale that gets it into the supermarkets. Elderflower is
very refreshing and a bottle of cordial is an excellent thing to
have in the store cupboard. I tend to pasteurise
my cordials to increase their life.
Some friends also insisted that a cordial of the berries was good for
keeping off colds. I make a version
with additional cloves, which I think is a very good winter
drink, but blackberries
also work well with elderberries.
So I'm now a friend of the elder tree. I've brought a
couple of the
dark leaved versions. They look nice but I'm not sure
about how much fruit I'll get. I'm also going to train my
existing, bird-sown, elder bush along a fence line. I think
I'll also try to grow about 5 metres of elder hedge to about 4 or 5
feet high. I'm hoping to make the new plants
from cuttings of the existing one.
Preserving herbs - Greek Oregano
(Origanum vulgare not origanum majorana, which is sweet
marjoram)
Greek oregano
is one of my favourite herbs and I use it almost every day. I
consider it to be the essential herb for pizzas as it combines very
well with tomatoes and onions. If you like to roast mixed
vegetables, or maybe just potatoes, in oil then sprinkle with Greek
oregano. I also use it in salad dressings.
Greek oregano is easy to grow from seeds. It likes a site
in full sun, very much like thyme. In the polytunnel I
put it along paths and in corners that are not suitable for other
plants. It is fairly dormant in winter and I try to harvest
the spring growth just before it flowers. You can harvest 2
or 3 times during the summer. The plant benefits from
some trimming otherwise it will become woody.
Most herbs are probably best used fresh and lose some of their
qualities when dried. Parsley is perhaps the best obvious
example. Greek oregano is the opposite as drying produces an
extra attractive intensity to its scent and taste.
I've developed some rules of my own for
drying herbs. Firstly, try to pick the herbs clean so
that you do not have to wash them. Don't try to dry them in
full sun as they will lose colour. Ensure that they are well
ventilated otherwise they will start to rot. Be very careful
about drying them over heat, otherwise you may cook them.
I've never used a purpose-made dessicator but I have tried using
the bottom oven of a Rayburn and this needs great care in order to
get the temperature correct. Nowadays I hang up the oregano
in bunches. Some people put a paper bag around them to keep
off the dust. The herbs hang until the leaves crumble at your
touch. Then I crumble the leaves off the stem and rub through
a sieve. You will be surprised at the reduction in volume
from the original bunch but don't worry because you don't need much
oregano. A small jar lasts me most of a year. This
method works for other similar herbs such as sage, although I
wouldn't try to sieve sage.
Summer green manure
Any gardener needs some awareness of their soil condition and
fertility. This is particularly true of veg gardeners who
actually remove soil nutrients in their harvest of crops. It
is also even more true of organic gardeners who are not going to
use easy-fix artificial chemicals to adjust their soil
condition.
It has long been know that rotted animal dung
adds fertility and structure to soil but there is less awareness
that some plants can be grown directly on the land for the same
purpose and this is called 'green
manure'.
Perhaps the most commonly used green manures are legumes, which
include the pea and bean family and clovers and vetches. The
roots of these plants host micro-organisms that fix
nitrogen from the atmosphere and so increase soil
fertility.
There are other reasons to use green manures. They prevent
bare soil from being colonised by weeds or from being compacted by
wind and rain. In the winter they can soak up nutrients that
would be leached out by rain. When the green material is dug
over and returned to the soil it improves the soil
structure.
Initially I was using a mix of grazing
ryegrass and clover as a winter green manure. This must
be dug back into the soil when it starts to grow in Feb/Mar.
If you leave a green manure to get too established it can be
difficult to dig back into the land. One other problem with
rye and clover is that I found that the clover is difficult to
germinate after mid-September.
I've now started to experiment with summer green manures.
Why not try to cover up all bare soil with trefoils, vetches and
clovers? I have sown clover under raspberries and this is
doing well and clover and trefoils under brassicas. Why waste
all that sunshine beating down on bare soil?
Books - John Seymour's 'Complete Book of Self-Sufficiency'
Between the ages of 18 and 25 I went from being an Accounting
student to becoming a tree planter who lived in a housing co-op and
went on occupations of nuclear power station sites. John
Seymour's book was passed around my circle of friends and I'm sure
that it had a great influence amongst the 'green' community at the
time. It was on many green anarcho-hippie bookshelves. This
book was published in 1976, before the spread of the ideas of
global warming or peak oil and the invention of the word permaculture.
Everything in straight lines - no
keyhole garden beds here. Nevertheless it has generally
survived the test of time well, perhaps because its author is so
knowledgeable and well respected. Its subject matter goes way
beyond gardening and is perhaps spread too thinly but items such as
the
vision of the one acre homestead remain very powerful. An
absolute classic and a good read.
This week in the garden
Weeding everything - particularly onions, parsnips and soft
fruit. Clearing out winter/spring growth from the polytunnel
and establishing tomatoes, squashes, capsicums and beans.
Planting out beans, salads, herbs. Sowing more beans, salads,
herbs. Harvesting potatoes, broad beans, salads. Potting on
kale and broccoli. Watering.